I’m in the US and having issues configuring electrical requirements for this r2 pro in my household. I’ve watch sweet Maria videos but it doesn’t solve my problem with my 110v as I do not have the option for 220v using a dryer unit nor changing my current electrical outlets.
I’m thinking of trying this power converter to step up/down safely when machine has a 2300w peak. Does anyone have any ideas to safely operate the r2 pro in most US homes?
The short answer is NO.
Technically, the issue is not just stepping 110V up to 220V, it is the total power draw!
The R2 Pro can pull around 2300W peak, which is only about 10A on a proper 230V circuit, but nearly 20A on a US 120V circuit before transformer losses are even considered. Once you add conversion inefficiency and startup/inrush current from the induction system, you are pushing or exceeding what a normal US household circuit can safely and reliably deliver. Most consumer-grade converters are not designed for sustained high-load induction appliances and can introduce heat, voltage instability, breaker trips, and long-term stress on the machine’s power electronics. A transformer does not create extra power. It only changes voltage while the full wattage still has to come from the wall.
To be precise:
The current increases because electrical power is always the product of voltage and current (P = V × I).
The R2 Pro still needs roughly 2300W regardless of the country or voltage. If the voltage is lower, the current must increase to deliver the same amount of power.
Rearranged for current, the formula becomes I = P / V
At 230V, the calculation is 2300W ÷ 230V ≈ 10A.
At 120V, the calculation becomes 2300W ÷ 120V ≈ 19.2A. 
So the wattage requirement stays the same, but because the voltage is much lower on a US household circuit, the current almost doubles.
Realistically, if you cannot provide proper 220–240V power, the standard 110V R2 is the better option. For the R2 Pro, a dedicated 220V circuit is effectively mandatory.
Do you have permanent electric appliances - stove, cooktop, oven, or Air Conditioning? If so, your incoming service 99% is 120/240 VAC (the other 1% would be 120/208 VAC). That means a competent electrician could add a circuit breaker, wiring, and an outlet to get you going. That would be safer than maxing out a 120 V 20A circuit with a converter. That said, the chinese transformer is unbelievably cheaper than I imagined it would be.