Robusta Revival: Roast Profiles

In the past year I revisited robusta (I believe canephora is the correct botanical name for this coffee species), and was blown away by the cup quality having received 4 robustas as part of my subscription to the Cherry Love Tasting Experience (sadly no longer available). I went on to seek out cupping events featuring robustas and continued to be surprised, I can only assume my previous poor opinion of robusta was likely based on tasting commodity robustas.

I’ve bought 5KG of speciality robusta and thanks to reading Mikolaj Pociecha’s ‘Robusta/Canephora’ book I’ve gleaned that the canephora species requires special handling largely down to the cell structure and rigid outer layer that challenges heat transfer:
A soak period
Longer MAI
Longer development times (could be 2:30, 18-25% for filter) that include plateau and low RoR
Increased fan speeds during DEV
Drum speed modulation to control the balance of convection to conduction combined with airflow control
Lighter internal colour 110-120 compared to 95-105 for arabica (filter profile)
Reduced batch sizes (I’m guessing 660g max on the Aillio Bullet R1)

It seems like a whole new set of rules, I would love to collaborate with someone, or if you have already developed some specialty robusta filter profiles you can share?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Ben

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This is rad, I wish I had some Robusta to collaborate with. Good Luck!

I have not got a Bullet Roaster, but this is a post I will get back to when I do! Thanks for all the detailed notes provided!

… I never believed my bean retailer when he advised against the purchase of robusta beans, stating that the tasting notes for these were: “burnt rubber”.

The canephora species has a ton of varieties to explore, I suspect few people can name more than 2 varietals, which would indicate most people’s experience of robusta is second hand and severely limited. It’s also not helped by the fact that too often canephora is roasted poorly, with unsuitable arabica roast profiles. This may also explain why a lot of people have written off the entire canephora species as burnt rubber. I have been guilty of spreading these falsehoods in the past. With climate change challenges, canephora has been thriving where arabica is no longer a viable crop for farmers. Canephora may provide part of the solution.

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Speaking as someone who has cupped a lot of these “new” robustas in the past couple of years, I must say that they are much better, but it isn’t just the roasting. The cultivation and processing methods changed once people smelled cash. Some of these specialty robustas cost as much as arabicas. Usually, Q Graders were something you’ve heard about in regard to arabica, but now, or for some time if you prefer, there are Q Robusta Graders. And this is all great, but I’m so far removed from paying these sums of money for something that yields so much more, is much more resistant and easier to produce and, the nail in the coffin, will never taste even close to quality arabica.

Going back to roasting, I guess the same thing can be said of arabica. Everyone takes whatever is cheap, burns it and it’s all good. Over roasted coffees all taste the same. Well, you might argue that one is wood, the other rubber and the third one ash, but it’s all the same to me. But hey, the one that bought arabica may slap that on the label and sell higher. Even today the market share for specialty coffee is extremely low. That’s due to the exorbitant prices and enormous inequalities. If specialty coffee represents 3% of the world market, what does that tell you? It’s like all the things that are good for the environment are only meant for the rich. And it’s not that people don’t like specialty coffee, it’s because they can’t afford it. How do I know? Well, I’ve given samples, had tasting sessions, been on fairs, etc. The people recognize the enormous difference in quality, even if it’s an 81 points coffee, but they all say they can’t afford it. And I’m talking about normal, everyday people, not the 3% (which is 55% in the US). What’s even more alarming, people sell coffees they’ve paid, let’s say 20€ KG, even though that is rare and I can buy some high quality gesha for less than that (although not from Panama), for 120€ KG roasted. It’s always the farmer that makes less than everybody. Taxes, customs, electricity, transport, packaging… So, having all that in mind, and looking at the listings of some specialty robustas that go anywhere between 8-18€ KG (the one I liked at cupping costs 15.90€), what is there to gain? Who will buy a robusta that costs 60-70€ KG? I might be able to sell it lower, but it wouldn’t be a good look to have a robusta that costs more than a gesha. But hey, come to think of it, that’s how much coffee in pods costs per KG. Continue on the path of destruction and adapt by growing lesser quality crops so we may continue with our ambush suicide unbothered? Let’s just put another example here. This year in Italy a KG of cherries reached 21€ KG, while bananas and pineapples were priced at 0.99€ KG. It’s already absurd, because the cherry orchards are a couple of KM away from me, and I don’t have to tell you where the bananas and pineapples come from. Now, imagine someone improves bananas and pineapples and slaps 21€ KG on them. Would people buy them? Also, how many people bought cherries this year? I visited France in season and the price was the same, so not many people ate cherries this year.

As for varieties, you can always visit this page and make your own catalogue. It’s all free.
World Coffee Research | This catalog aims to present information for…

Once the prices are a bit less than a very good gesha (not from Panama), or all arabica species die, I’ll be happy to discuss the roasting process and profiles for robusta. What will happen is that the robusta prices will continue going up…

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