Does anyone know if this is actually possible? It seems that it would be, with the proper power cord and a correctly wired 240V/60Hz circuit. I’d guess that 20 Amps would be plenty of juice. Maybe even 15 would be enough.
Can any of you EU folks tell me the type of receptacle that is on the EU spec Bullet? Is it the same IEC C13/14 that they use on the US spec one?
Okay, I got confirmation from Aillio that this should work. The receptacle on the EU V2 models is the same IEC C13/14 that it on the US V1.5 ones and the units will tolerate 240V@60Hz.
Now, I just need to know either the power or current rating of the EU V2 model, so I can determine what sort of circuit I need to install. Any help from EU V2 owners would be appreciated.
Not quite. US 240V is “split phase.” Here is a link to a Wikipedia article about it. I can’t claim to fully understand the reasoning, but split phase is somehow different from 2-phase. It seems to have something to do with a rotating E-field. My 35+ year old high school physics is failing me on this.
However, I do know for certain that the voltage converter you’re using is robbing a small amount of the extra power that using 240V would otherwise make available to you (assuming you have a V2 Bullet). The hard facts are that the US 120V supply provides less power (1800 Watts on a 15A circuit) than the EU standard 230V system (2990W at 13A, which I’ve read is common in the UK - not sure about EU, proper).
Note that @jacob mentions in his reply below that 8A is required to run an EU V2 Bullet at 240V. That’s 1920W - more than an 1800W circuit can hope to support. Since I’m looking to actually use the extra power (full loads to second crack), I can’t sacrifice anything to a voltage converter.
Thanks, @jacob. That’s what I needed. Now, can you tell me a reasonable upper limit for the upcoming Bullseye? If I’m going to run a 240V circuit, I’d like it to be able to support either one. If I run, say a 30A circuit at 240V, will that comfortably power a Bullseye? (I’d think that it would be PLENTY.)
Just wanted to share my experience using a V2 240v bullet:
I installed a 240V 15amp circuit (or maybe it was 20? It was definitely overkill). The bullet shipped with a cord with a standard US 120V end (two vertical prongs, 1 ground) so I needed to order a cord with the 240V end (1 vertical and 1 horizontal, 1 ground). Initially we had some issues running it on US 60hz but Jacob helped me out and an early firmware update for the v2 bullet resolved that. No issues since (~100lbs).
Thanks for the reply, @jackamick. Glad to hear that it’s working out. BTW, the plug you’re describing sounds like a NEMA 6-20, which would make it a 20 A circuit.
Can you tell me how the buying/shipping/customs process worked? Was it difficult or expensive to arrange?
Ah yes, you’re correct. It’s nice because then no one will plug a 120V device into it.
Customs wasn’t bad, but it was stressful. Probably because I wasn’t very patient. This is what I posted on the Facebook group:
I just wanted to outline the process of importing a Bullet into the US, for anyone else ordering direct.
Wednesday: Label created by Aillio
Thursday-Friday was a holiday
Monday: DHL picked up the package
Tuesday: Packaged arrived in USA
Between Tuesday and Wednesday the customs status changed multiple times. At one point DHL needed my SSN (or federal tax ID for a corporation) and Wednesday morning I had a bill for duty ($160). The FDA also checked the bullet, but concluded that they did not need to inspect it. This delayed delivery by 1 day.
Thursday: Package left customs and was delivered.
If you call 866-600-0014 that’s the line for DHL customs support. Much more helpful than the normal DHL support phone line.
Wow, that was fast! Just over a week from Taiwan seems pretty amazing. And $160 for duty doesn’t seem too bad.
I’m guessing that you’re on the west coast. Since I’m on the east coast, I’ll add another week to my estimate, just in case it comes cross-country by ground.
My one experience with DHL in 2009 was nothing short of amazing. If your experience is anything like mine you should be very pleased how quickly it arrives once it’s in their hands.
Might be wishful thinking. But does the R1 V2 have an internal switch to power the 240v in the US? Just received my bullet and exploring options. I have heard that using step up step down converters will diminish its power but not sure how true that is.
There is no power selection available in the R1 Bullet- you must choose what single power range you’ll use at purchase, either 115 VAC or 220 VAC. In the US it’s typically 115 VAC but I’m aware of at least a couple owners that bought an R1 Bullet with the 220 VAC power board.
I haven’t had an issue roasting with 115 VAC but then the voltage runs higher at my location than it does in some areas of the country (I typically see 120-121 VAC). The 115 VAC power board works fine but it’s apparently bumping up against its thermal limits for large batches at max power- especially on a hot day. If you roast 1 kg batches and use max power, the power control transistors (IGBTs) will be running near their max temps on a warm day and can be subjected to throttling to avoid damage.
I haven’t heard of 220 VAC power boards having an issue, so if you can supply a 220 VAC circuit (either directly or with a step-up transformer) for the Bullet, that would seem ideal. Just remember that it might limit the number of interested US buyers if you someday want to sell it.
As a sidebar- several users roasting 1 kg batches with 115 VAC power boards use a small USB-powered fan to help move air on the power board. It’s kinda klunky but it works quite well.
Bruce
Edit: I forgot an important point…
the 115 VAC version of the Bullet has power settings P0 thru P9;
the 220 VAC model has power settings P0 thru P10.
I’m afraid I can’t tell you if the power output at 115 VAC/P9 is less than 220 VAC/P10 but I think the intuitive answer is the 220 VAC model has higher maximum power to the drum than the 115 VAC model.
Not entirely true. Both 120V and 230V bullets have the same power settings P0-P9, so you will get the same power from either of them. The P10 is experimental and is only a available to a few people for testing