For my setup, I applied black silicone caulking to my black 3D printed adapter. I bought the 3" adapter from Exhaust Adapters for Aillio Bullet – Cafe Clemente and then used a 3" to 4" dryer hose adapter to vent out of my doggie door. The caulking really helps to seal against smoke leaking out. Also, it keeps the adapter glued into the Bullet. And I use silicone because it can take really high heat without burning or breaking down (unlike polyurethane).
So the aircon was the problem, today i did not need to turn it on and smoke went 100% out the duct no leak whatsoever which was nice!
But i still need the inline fan because the weather is hot most of the time and aircon will be defiantly be needed.
by the way am the post author but kind of facing some technical trouble in the account name
Are you also able to monitor the IGBT1 temps?
It helps in knowing how cool you need to keep a room, and can help with electricity waste.
Thanks for the update. Was confused by the new name at first, but glad you figured out the issue.
I replied above, about keeping an eye on the IGBT1 data, and making sure you don’t hit 98
Others mentioned the airflow stuff with good videos and articles. But I am adding to this, because climate control is a thing with the little Bullet, and IGBT1 is a big factor in whether a roast might fail in the heat. So when designing ventilation and climate control and what not, it is good to have eyeballs on IGBT1 at some point
Hey Jimmy, thanks for the comment. The room actually needs to be cool regardless because am storing my greens there anyways. however I am not quite familiar with IGBT1 and what is the appropriate value range of it so i would appreciate if you could refer me to some resource
When you are on the main roasting page, there is a little icon you can click that will show you more about how the Bullet is performing. It is the major reason to use RT4 over other software, and is particular to electronic roasters in a way.
The info window will pop up and cover your roasting screen, so you will have to drag it to a different place or close it if it is bothering you. But it will show you a bunch of useful details about how your roaster is performing. Something’s that come to mind:
- power voltage going to the roaster, which can let you know if you have irregular voltage source or no
- fan rpm, so you know if something changes in airflow, which would alter your profiles
- ambient temp
And a bunch more
But the IGBT1 sensor can overheat easily, because it shuts the roaster down at 98C, yet is located right next to the drum, so the slightest increase in room temp in the Summer can get that temperature up there pretty easily.
The IGBT1 sensor is located under the roaster towards the rear, and you will see many of use have a USB fan there to prevent over heating.
If you use P9, IGBT1 sensor will get over 90C pretty easily. So you may want to monitor it if you roast that way, but in a cool room, you might start ignoring IBT1 data over time, but it is good to know it is there if you ever run into mid roast shut downs from over heating.
On the info page, I believe IGBT1 is the top line. The two digit number is the temperature in Celsius. So 94 means 94C. If it goes above 98, it will shut off the “P” heat to your roast until the temp drops. Sometimes you can recover, and other times it ruins the roast.
Appropriate value range is under 98.
It isn’t the temp of your roast, just the temp of the sensor, so that it can prevent catastrophic over heating. The irony is that the work around is to put a fan on it. Which feels dangerous, but is sanctioned by tech support, but I haven’t discussed with them why that is ok. I assume the main purpose is to just keep the electronics board cool, so the fan is not just cooling the sensor, but the electronics too. Which would make sense, but I don’t know. They have so little time I try to stay on the issue, when I talk to tech support, even though I have questions, I only ask maybe 1/4 of what I’d like to know.
So as you plan out your airflow and room temps and roasting profiles for larger batches etc, IGBT1 will be your friend.
If you have the duct connected directly to the adapter, there shouldn’t be an inline fan in use. It may be that you have negative pressure from the pull of the Bullet’s fan, so opening a window in a different part of the building will help.
If you wish to use an inline fan in the ducting, it should not connect to the device directly, but should have a few inches of space between the exhaust of the Bullet and the intake of the duct.
There are folks who do attach active ducting to the bullet with success. However, the manufacturer’s recommendation is that active venting should not be directly attached to the Bullet.
I’m pasting an image from this forum of recommended active ducting.
got it, thanks for the comprehensive info!
understood
Sure thing!
Not many people know what it is, but know they have to use a fan or a cooler room. But you can really get accurate about things when you are watching the IGBT1 sensor temp. And then once you get into a routine, or find you never get close to 98C, then I guess you can ignore it. But some of us roast in less control environments in the Summer, and that data is sort of always up. Especially since USB fans sometimes turn off and I won’t notice because the cooling tray is blasting, and when I see the temp go up, I know something is up before it happens, and have saved a lot of money not killing batches anymore.